The CFDA In PRINTS: Soft, Indifferent, & Bold

Tracy Reese (Above), floated through a plush and cascading landscape of flowers that was soft and demuire .  The Season calls for a floral pattern that has intricate beauty and sits just like a Fantin-Latour oil materpiece painting, overwhelming subtlty.

It was really Great to see so many designers at this event in examples of their own work to salute and champion the initiatives of other (CFDA)member designers.  The patterns seen on the red carpet were up to the minute statements about this seasons approach to the trends and the

Coco Rocha, (Above) showed how an entire mood and emotional response can be envoked by a masterfully executed print.  Michael Kors is always very specific in his print stories, as this 

VICTOR GLEMAUD: Knows Modern Men

Clean, graphic, fresh, timeless....and NEW.  Victor Glemaud puts sexy into summer .  He has delivered The Look is that is shockingly appropriate.
Above the knee is the new men's mini that is sure to draw attention to the fact that, its very "OK"for a man to look alluring and in some cases, beautiful.
 In regards to heat, for those events where the weather is extreme this season, a neutral palette paired with minimal graphics is a necessary look as well as it is a  charming and debonaire one.

So 60's...so 80's.......so RIGHT NOW!

Fashion @ The French

Venus Williams!  A phenomenal combination of exceptional talent and genetic perfection has propelled this athlete to unheralded heights .  She has been making fashion news while competing for championshps at the highest level in tennis in her own designs.  To speak on her 2009 French Open look (Below), she strolled on to the stage at Roland Garros in one of the season's most talked about trends, the Ikat print. 

A fabric made using an Indonesian decorative technique in which warp or weft threads, or both,  are tie-dyed before weaving.  That makes this kind of fabrication extremely special, and wonderfully mastered as a print.  It is a fantastic stretch forward in activewear campaigns becoming more like RTW apparel.  Venus' clothing line "11" is on the mark for keeping the sport-set in the loop of what is stylish and very "Right Now".

Skull Culture

I was recently asked if skulls were still "in" by a major fashionista seeking out some print direction.  The truth of the matter is that skulls have been a part of design culture for longer than anybody can possibly remember.  They come and go with different brands who venture out once and a while to catch the eye of the consumer who appreciates the tattoo stylings of the "object d'macabre."

There are those who go out and get a tattoo and those who just want one as a fashion accessory in the color of the season.  
A couple years ago it was the thing to do after Ralph Lauren ran a skull print in his home furnishings line.  Once retailers saw that the king of the preppy guard went" street", it was a whirlwind race to see who could get the most creative version of the bare cranium design to market first.
It is a widely recognized symbol of cool and no one who knows anything about style would dare say they are "out" except the trend monsters who participate in the buying frenzies of anything that makes them seem hip.
Skulls are modern relics in pop culture that we love to hate and let's face it.....They aren't going anywhere, anytime soon.

All Screens Available at

www.choiceshirts.com

Put It In The Bag

Summer bags for all occasions bearing prints that express every facet of the season's personality are all up for grabs. Florals, ethnics, geometrics, and vintage favorites will all make places for themselves on the boards for inspiration and optimum trend impact.

Marc Jacobs leads the race with all kinds of goodies at every price point and for every kind of customer. The "Miss Marc" tote (Above) by Marc by Marc is a darling character inspired by the fashionistas of the world. A more complicated fabrication of a heart applique' pattern on the "Andy" tote (Below) strikes a jackpot on the "Must Have" lists of women all over the globe.

Elaine Turner makes a great statement with her "Ring Handle" tote (Above) that bears a funky 60's print rendered with clean bold graphics and colors that pop with vibrancy and eye-catching style.

Juicy Couture is known for their regal crests & heraldic icons, but they chose to switch gears with the chain strap hobo (Above) this season and use an ethnic look called the "Stewart-Inez" print.

Flowers are a season requirement because they connote the feelings of growth, sunshine and of course, SUMMER. Kenneth Cole throws a large scale abstract print in the mix (Above) for a relatively striking floral-like concept.

Design giants like Chloe' and Kate Spade take the flower concept a tad more seriously and initiate more literal interpretations. "Les Jardins" by Chloe' (Above) is a true to life garden scene and "Fairchild Garden" (Below) by Kate Spade depicts a subdued impression of blooming tulips.

If you remember last season's Dooney& Bourke giraffe print that swept the market, then you can appreciate Michale Kors choosing to capitalize on the success and run a very similar rendition on a large shopping tote(Above).

The world is making a commitment to go green and designers are making every effort to correspond with designs that adhere to this principle in both form and function. Orla Kiely delivers a cross-hatch burlap print overlapped with the trademark vine print (above). A very organic feeling is the message delivered by Longchamp with the "Bambou" tote (Below).

Longchamp has very fun and recreational bags this season for both sides of the Atlantic. The cleverly named "It" bag makes the statement all on its' own and a very futuristic bag rocking the name "Xlight Imprime" (Below) is a pixelated pattern that has influenced many brands to follow suit.

Tokidoki is all that is Harajuku and then some. The print is a feeling that is very recognizable as their own and packs a punch on any shaped bag. (Below)

All Available @

NORDSTROM'S

Newly Ruined

Every once in a while a collection of very interesting combinations comes along and awakens our intrigue with the unusual. Miu Mui made a very memorable and noteworthy statement on urban decay this season in Milan with the prints showcased in the Spring 2009 Collection.
Ancient hieroglyphics were the underlying theme of the patterns that were approached from several different perspectives and infused with urban influences. A mosaic technique (Above) gave the dress a regal appearance as if encrusted with individual ceramic tiles.

Some of the prints have a more literal interpretation (Above) and procure elements from a civilization that began with the age of fashion.

Perhaps the most significant was the interpretation of the "Ruins of Europe" being defaced by graffiti tag artists (Above, Below). An unsightly visual that has become common in modern culture and Miu Miu displayed it perfectly with winning and unexpected style as an homage to both art forms.

Let's Go To Bed

When it comes to dressing the bed, even the most stylish of fashion enthusiasts find themselves lost for exactly what will work in terms of texture, pattern and color. Bedding comes in many gauges and classifications from affordability to unsurpassed luxury for every taste level. It's only befitting that one of the world's largest home retailers, Ikea, offers some of the most affordable and appealing choices in the contemporary categories that appeal to both men and women.

The "Andrea Satin " (above) is the very functional stripe variation in a retro color combination that makes a good choice to dress the room up or down.

The "Jorun Vaxt" (Above) offers a more subdued and tonal palette that caters to a more refined and neutral aesthetic.

The "Unni Trad" (Above) is a very versatile ensemble because of the many colors the pattern yields for coordinates. Also, the tye dye effect is great for those who live in the bed or have kids and pets because it is virtually impervious to stains and wear.

The true Scandinavian origin of the design principles at Ikea are always apparent in their presentation of prints throughout the catalog of choices. The "Unni Slinga" (Above) and the "Hedda Blom"(Below) are patterns that are affordable alternatives to other Nordic favorites such Merimekko and Orla Kiely.
The "Kajsa Trad" (Below) is an elementary yet effective color block that provides a botanical motif that brings an organic and calming quality to any room designed around the bed as a focal point.

The "Beata Orkide" (Below) is a batik large scale floral in a universal colorway that epitomizes the balance of a both masculine and feminine look. This technique was mastered by Calvin Klein Home who coined "The Sex and The City" bed, with the hugely successful pattern, "Bamboo Floral."  The Ikea Bedding Collection is definitely a front runner in stylish bedding for the the millennium.

All Available 

www.ikea.com

Connect The Dots

To avoid being cliche and run of the mill when executing dots and stripes in a collection, it is very important to achieve the right scale and color combination. Ann Demeulemeester delivers a winning collection that brings an aire of sophistication to a very relaxed and unconstructed silhouette.
When combining linear geometrics, there is a fine line between eye-catching and optical chaos. Such pairings of this taboo combo were diplayed perfectly at her Spring 2009 show in Paris (Above).

The Dot and the stripe are textile clutch prints when executed properly and based on the fabrication, they can serve as key wardrobe pieces for every season. The neutral base (Above,Below) makes for very wearable items and maintains a clean tailored line that is serious and mature.

Want A New Tattoo?

If you haven't at least heard of the Don Ed Hardy/Christian Audigier tattoo craze that has taken the world by storm then you have been taking a seriously long break from fashion trends. This dynamic empire of lifestyle goods has inspired a movement of ornately embellished items that speak to the mindset of the inner rebel that wants a conversational edge in basic items.

This very popular look has been the wellspring of several look-a-like lines that have surfaced since the brand's meteoric rise to being a celebrity driven style. For several seasons now, Christian Audigier has raised the bar and made the novelty T-shirt (Above) and funky board shorts (Below) more than just a picture screened on a garment.

His style of imaging is easily recognizable and borrows from many forms of graphic art to render designs that are unique and in alignment with the line's objectives. There are comic book and animation references (Above) and 70's vintage concert poster looks (Below) that are very up to date and make for must-have items for the cool & hip.

The image of a skull (below) has become a favorite tattoo symbol with this particular customer base and he has paired it with virtually everything imaginable to keep breathing new life into this ageless icon of danger and revolution.

Available Nordstrom's, Ed Hardy & Christian Audigier Shops

Dress Prints @ J. Crew

The Print Collection on dresses this season @ J.Crew is like a walk through the impressionist gallery at the Louvre in Paris. The florals are dreamy watercolor viewpoints that set the tone for a fantasy escape in Renoir's garden.

1. Abstract watercolor floral


2. Indigo dip-dye

3. Rosette applique

4. Country calico floral

5. Organic botanical floral

Accessory Highlights:

Patchwork beach tote

Floral ballet flat

ALL AVAILABLE @ WWW.JCREW.COM

WUNDERKIND: understated genius

Wolfgang Joop (Below) was a pioneer of innovation when he departed from traditional styles and standards of design with his globally licensed brand "JOOP!" His Spring '09 collection for Wunderkind delivers a stellar command performance during London Fashion Week. He unveiled a Japanese military feeling with hints of an era that still very influential by today's design standards.

Some Looks from the Collection:

1.Strategically arranged square shapes in a grey scale proves to be the "non-plaid" plaid of the season.

2.Bold and quirky geometrics (above)that could be worn as jazzy seperates add spice and just the right amout of pattern to revive pieces already in the closet.

4. Mixing and matching prints is simple when you balance the +/- spacing and keep the colors coordinated(above, below).

5. The lotus bloom is an asian textile staple and still has calming properties even after being laced with a soloarized color palette for a youthful effect (above, below).
6. A very feminine floral camouflage(below) is a clever thread in the overall military theme of the show.

7. Eyelets and applique (above,below) are always a reference to yester"year" and add a note of nostalgia to the collection with an updated contemporary technique.

Dressed For Court?

Thom Browne has become the man of ill-proportion around the fashion community with his dramatic emphasis on the cut or better yet, the lack there of. As usual, his show was completely unpredictable, capricious and of course eccentric. He stepped things up a bit this season and added some playful elements to his collection that were as entertaining as they were wearable.
Adding conversationals to menswear is very rare these days but he successfully plays with a sporting motif ,combining the references of classic of lawn tennis and urban street wear looks.

The prints are almost elementary in comparison to the complicated structuring of the garments, but the nostalgic reference pulls the looks together nicely.

*style notes-1. Dropped waist lines

                         2. Above the knee shorts

Asian Persuasion

Prints that are of an Asian derivation seem to always connote a regal and ornate feeling regardless of what they are printed on. The most common of which are the floral motifs screened on fine silks in bright tones and pefectly composed repeats.
Vivenne Tam takes this classic motif and applies a brushstroke (Above) to give it a more random feeling and a freehand style for the liberated and rebellious look of the season.

This technique is not new to the runway but her choice of color and scale makes this century-old idea new & appealing all over again. (Above) It is applied to a floor-length look that can easily be worn as an evening gown or with sandals for a pache resort look for the day.

Embroidery is far too often overlooked as an art form that pays homge to texture and pattern in a three demesional format. She applies it to the bottom of a dress (Above) to give it a feeling of luxe seperates.

Summer Paisley

The official kick off of Summer is right around the corner and retailers are pulling out all the stops to offer something new and familiar.  Paisleys rank among the highest in looks that are re-worked to fit into every season.  For women, Miss Sixty (above) offers a graphic and bold take on the classic motif, to give it an explosive charge for the young at heart.
For the guys (above), Cavalli stays with the formal intricacies found in ancient tapestry and opts to interject lively and vivid punches of color for a cool summer look.

Dignitary Style

All the world is watching the stylings of Michelle Obama since she has made a stand to support American designers and especially those who are ascending to new heights with their collections. The French have their own sytlish first lady, Carla Bruni-Sarkozy, who has her eye on a fashion new-comer, French designer Alexis Mabille. He isn't afraid to take chances while he is building a name for himself and carving out a niche with the fashion elite by showing during Couture Fashion Week in Paris.
Mabille creates a playfully sophisticated conversational look (above) that is somewhat kitchy, but the effort to put some originality in the novelty of a nautical theme is absolutely adorable. A muted & tonal fractual print (below) is used on one of his evening looks by using an abstract applique to create an elongated hombre effect that is elegant and scintillating.

Gucci Pants

Since taking over the house, designer Frida Giannini has taken the Gucci brand in a much more leisurely direction for the luxury consumer. This season she took a whimsical idea and intertwined a serious textile pattern with sophisticated colors to create looks that are distinctly her own in menswear.

The subdued floral wallpaper pattern (above & below) is a subtle tropical scenario that plays on a masculine yet romantic theme for a look that will turn heads. The idea of mens trousers playing host to a print is a novel idea in the market place, but Gucci is quickly putting an end to that age old concept and hopefully making it commonplace.

Top Prints at The Met/2009

1. LIYA WINS AGAIN!!!!!

Mega model Liya Kebede is in full stride and seems to be getting it right every time these days. She created a photo frenzy last night at The Met's, "Model as Muse", when she showed up in a sawed-off Derek Lam mini that was as expressive as it was daring.

2. JESSICA STAM in Rodarte

3. ALLISON SAROFIM in Giambattista Valli


4. CLAUDIA SCHIFFER in Chanel


5. IRIS STRUBEGGER in Givenchy Haute Couture


6. LEIGHTON MIESTER in Louis Vuitton

7. CHANEL IMAN in Zac Posen

8. ANNA WINTOUR in Chanel Haute Couture

9. LIZ GOLDWYN in Rodarte

10. OLUCHI ONWEAGBA in Oscar de la Renta

Models, Artists, & Designers: A Creative Conference

The airbrush technique is the modern watercolor for creating beautiful patterns of luminous motifs and textural designs that celebrate the season of Spring/Summer. Master artists, especially from the Impressionist era, forged a path that epitomizes this very principle and is still very relevant today. A look from Elie Tahari (above) demonstrates this concept in an updated botanical design that will definitely be on the trend boards for the season.

For centuries, artists have used models as a source of inspiration. George Seurat's painting style of fusing softness with light has been inspiring the world in every way possible. His famous painting "The Models" (above), has the kind of tones and hues that have stimulated color stories for every maket imaginable. Its timeless appeal and classic reverence was rendered as if he had an airbrush tool himself.

Today we are celebrating the Model as "The Muse" for sparking the vision of designers and influencing the path of fashion.

Liya Kebede, Natalia Vodianova, Anna Jagodzinska, Isabeli Fontana, Lara Stone, Jourdan Dunn, Raquel Zimmermann, Caroline Trentini, and Natasha Poly have been crowned the Muses for this season.

African Market Place

It is virtually impossible to run contemporary apparel lines without using the influences of African textiles. The prints that have emerged from the looms of the village artisans for centuries on the African continent has helped shape western design in color theories, composition and direction for as long as there has been fashion. Rachel Roy had a most interesting take on color blocking (above) by using a batik as a textural background to add a sense of complexity to the garment. (Below) Anisa Mapungwe of South Africa, achieves this same feeling by engineering a retro stripe coloration for an international feeling of cultural diversity.

Indian Summer

This is the first real peak at Fall 2009 done right "a la" Matthew Williamson. Sienna Miller is radiant as the summer sun over the blazing desert sands in this ethnic print over lame'. Matthew's entire Collection for the season was a stunning spectacle of intricate prints that gave the audience the experience of being in a royal suite at a luxurious desert resort. The prints and beadwork were perfectly chosen & lavish symbols of the desert's beauty by day and by night. This show is easily going to be rated in my Top 10, so stay tuned for the video of this fabulous show in the May posts.

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Abstract To The Future

A painting by Marko Blazo called "Taxi Marathon", 2007, was the NY.ArtSlant.com winner for the month of March. The vivid coloration gives the piece movement and a sense of orderly chaos. The line between art and fashion is virtually non-existent in modern culture and it has become my mission to highlight how one is an outward expression of the other. It is more than appearent that the age of the future is upon us and being expressed in every format by mass media outlets.

Cynthia Rowley has a spring collection that is all about the future of textiles & utilizes brushed metallics and textural fabric selection to broaden the scope of space age lifestyle choices. The patterns in this collection bring a sort of cosmopolitan whimsicality to the racks that will appeal to the cultured and street-wise fashionistas.

Life-A-Sketch

Is there a more personal life accessory than the lap top? In the mindset of personalization, it makes sense to embellish the tool that creates all of the fabulous designs that keep the world stimulating and fun. This is an extreme example (above) of what is possible in terms of tricking-out your Mac Book. If you are challenged for a direction, be mindful that there is an endless source of inspiration available(even to the artistically impaired) once you commit to your computer having its own daring look.

The i-generation has a very strong passion about making themselves identifiable in this age of mass merchandising and computer cloning. It is all about making your personal items compelling enough that your personality is incarnated within your possessions. As if an exotic car isn't alluring enough, try wrapping it with graphic etchings to give it a tattoo appeal.

Home Designers & Interior Decorators have had a recent rise in requests to add peculiar designs to the upholsteries of fine furnishings. This is a must for clients who want to cater to their more eccentric sides, without compromising the equity of their homes. Roberto Cavalli agrees that eye-grabbing design should be reflected in every form of our lives. He lends his unique brand of prints to Coca Cola Light bottles (below) for the fashion enthusiast who likes a beverage with style.

The New You.

Sometimes to most outrageous print is the one that simply defies all logic and reasoning and addresses the issue at hand, style.   Rachel Roy always delivers a sophisticated palette with intricate print stories that are of a language she can call her own.  The statement that is strategically engineered on the dress (above), creates a moment of rebellion and defiance in a manner that conforms with contemporary RTW standards.  This chic rendering of graffiti is a winner, so be prepared to see it all over the place for late summer transition deliveries in stores.

The Great Americana!

Only Michael Kors could take such campy & general motifs such as stripes, dots, & gingham to make such a fresh runway statement. It's like taking a walk on the waterfront in Cape Cod or having iced summer cocktails at the Kennedy compoundin Hiannisport. A large scale gingham(above) is a winner every Spring.

A bold rugby stripe (above) is a perfect compliment of casual elegance for the on the go look, and will boldly celebrate the winter thaw.

The ever present polka dot is perhaps the most vesatile print known to fashion because of its' ability to be everything for every designer looking to connect with the general consumer. Evening(above) is no exception, the large scale dot works nicely on a formal look in the warmer months.

Throughout the industry, it is often thought that the americana look is strictly for novelty lines and it only appeals to the mass-market aesthetic. MK submits looks (above & below) that are contrary to this belief and make for stunning sportwear combos that work for the entire season.

Digital Dip

This is not the time to break out those plaid shorts, or the faded and once vibrant red lifeguard shorts of last summer. This season's choices are just too funky and are inspired by pop imaging that reads hip and fresh for all ages.

Whether it be a Warhol-like collage of portraits, a gaffiti motif tagged by a supreme designer or just a fun kaleidescope of colors to give the edge, swim is about keeping your cool this season.